Los Angeles Times

Critic’s Notebook

The vibe is hot ― and so are the grills

By S. Irene Virbila
Times Staff Writer

At Gyu-Kaku, the staff is so unflappable and friendly it seems to have dropped in from another, gentler planet. Where do they find such evolved waiters? Nothing is ever a problem. No one is ever grumpy. A waiter is always there when you need one. The fact that the Korean style barbecue is both delicious and inexpensive is practically irrelevant.

I’ve visited the Gyu-Kaku in West Los Angeles, and recently I noticed another had opened in Beverly Hills. (There’s a Torrance location too.) Casting about for somewhere to eat on a Monday night, I decided to try it. The place was hopping, even at 9 on a Monday, when we happened to secure the last available table. This location is much bigger and more comfortable than the West L.A. restaurant. Apart from a long communal table in the front room, the seating is in semiprivate booths framed in wooden slats, with rice-paper lanterns swaying overhead. Inside a booth, you feel as if you’re in your own little world.

We looked over the large menu, which is as graphically challenged as some websites. No need to make sense of it, though ― just plunge in and order. “New!” is emblazoned in front of enough items to mean the menu is constantly evolving. Maybe that’s why Japan has more than 800 Gyu-Kaku restaurants.

At this location, the seafood and vegetable categories are beefed up, and specials might include lobster tail in butter. (Note to self: Check out the black pepper shrimp and black pepper calamari.) For the uninitiated, the list of this location’s top 10 best-sellers posted on the walls offer clues as to what to order.

We went for the classics ― which, of course, have to include kimchi. The assorted kimchi offers some variety beside the usual cabbage. For an appetizer, we ordered some shishito and watched the hot little green peppers curl and brown on the grill set in the middle of our table.

Personally, I couldn’t go to Gyu-Kaku without ordering bibimbap. The rice arrives in a stone bowl so hot that it’s practically smoking. Your waiter will ask you how spicy you want it. Say “spicy.” And proceed to mix a red chile bean paste into the rice, spread the rice on the sides of the hot bowl and leave them there to develop a wonderful crunchy crust.

If you feel a cold coming on, a bowl of ramen might be in order. It comes in a stone bowl too, a coil of delicious springy noodles in a rich clear broth that’s boiling away.

When it’s time to get down to the serious business of grilling, think kalbi. You can order the boned short ribs with various marinades: traditional sweet tare, spicy miso, lemon shio (salt), for example. It’s only a little bit extra for the premium kalbi tare, and absolutely worth it ― the beef is so tender and flavorful. As the thin strips of beef cook over the charcoal, the edges brown and caramelize, giving each bite a sweet edge.

You can also order steaks, including a 5-ounce Kobe beef, and an array of seafood. Vegetarians aren’t left out either, with mixed mushrooms, kabocha squash and other vegetables ready for the grill. Salads, though, are not Gyu-Kaku’s best suit.

The restaurant can get pretty raucous at times. The night we were there, the staff must’ve sung “Happy Birthday” to three of four parties. The foursome next to us were having a swell time sipping soju cocktails and reaching across the table with tongs to turn this or that on the grill. A couple of them got up every few minutes to go out and smoke.

I heard an “mmm” from their table and looked over to find them cooking s’mores ― you know, the Girl Scout campfire dessert. This was the real thing, with regular graham crackers and chocolate bars ― not a pastry chef’s haute version, “Mmm,” one of the guys murmured as his girlfriend fed him a s’more.

I can only begin to imagine what happy hour must be like when draft Kirin beer goes for 99 cents and the bar serves up White Tigers (white cranberry juice and soju). Wild.

In Touch

Where the stars do the cooking

Most celebrities don't even know their way around their own kitchens, so why are they happily cooking up at storm at LA's trendy Gyu-Kaku?

Can Leonardo DiCaprio cook? What about Drew Barrymore? And Fred Durst? To find out, make a reservation at a restaurant named Gyu-Kaku in Beverly Hills, because that's where stars, who might not even use the stove in their own homes, cook their dinner. And they're happy to pay for the privilege!

Gyu-Kaku (which means "horn of the bull" in Japanese) serves Japanese barbecue with a Korean influence and does it in a very unusual way. Each table has its own charcoal grill, so diners can cook their food themselves. The do-it-yourself dishes range from steak and chicken to seafood and vegetables — and there's even DIY scrumptious, mouthwatering desserts. A variety of marinade sauces are available for the food, which is grilled in state-of-the-art charcoal roaster systems. (There's absolutely no smoke or charcoal odor emitted.)

The owners of the restaurant like to say that no complaints about the cooking are accepted at Gyu-Kaku, because every customer is his or her own chef!

This unique concept has created a huge following among Hollywood stars. Leo comes in with girlfriend Gisele Bundchen at least once a week (they recently came in three nights in a row!) to make their own dinner. Their favorite dish is a steak marinated in a miso-based sauce. When Drew Barrymore recently dined there she posed for pictures with a birthday group at the next table. Bridget Fonda is a frequent diner who cooks (and eats) at a communal table. And all the waiters vie to serve Sofia Coppola, because they say she's so nice.

What makes Gyu-Kaku so successful? General manager Issei believes that "the restaurant's upbeat, friendly atmosphere is a real plus." Then there are the famous Soju mojito drinks, which are made with Korean vodka and a secret, never-to-be-revealed juice. "I can't tell you what our secret juice is," Issei says. "But that drink is unbelievably popular."

They're clearly doing something right. Gyu-Kaku boasts over 800 restaurants in Japan, one of Hawaii and three in L.A. And they plan to open more this year in Pasadena, Calif., San Francisco and New York.

"We plan on sharing our concept with the entire country," Issei says with a smile. "So watch for us!"

IN new york

Cooking Out

At the center of every table at Gyu-Kaku, a circular, smokeless gas-and-charcoal barbecue sizzles, casting a fireside glow over each semi-private booth and turning tong-wielding diners into instant chefs. Succulent pieces of Kobe beef, skirt steak, butterfly shrimp glazed with garlic, plump scallops, and lobster tails are quickly seared, then dipped in sweet, tangy marinades and savored. Vegetarians share the fun, too, with mushrooms, zucchini, tofu, and appetizers including namuru, and assortment of crunchy pickled veggies. With more than 800 locations in Japan, this Tokyo-based chain of do-it-yourself yakiniku (grilling) restaurants is now sharing the joy of cooking with diners in California, Hawaii, and New York City. Arigato.

L.A. Weekly

Precision Short Ribs

In automobiles, technology is usually a good thing, making cars easier to drive, more pleasant and safer. In cuisne, this isn't necessarily the case: Wood-burning ovens are capable of tastier brand than the most advanced electric model, and even the most expensive computerized steamers are less capable of perfect rice than a simple heavy pot on a stove. Live-fire Korean barbecue, although it tends to cook your clothing as efficiently as it does your meat, is delicious. But live-fire Japanese tabletop barbecue, sometimes called yakiniku, is pretty good too ― the Korean experience re-engineered into sleek ritual, the meat and the smoke and the companionship without the stink, most of the garlic, or the funk. The Gyu-Kaku chain, which extends to 800 restaurants in Japan (and with the opening of the Pasadena restaurant later this month to four restaurants in the Los Angeles area), is the user-friendly Lexus of yakiniku, restaurants, miso-marinated skirt steak, basil-flavored chicken, and pricey Kobe-style short ribs, sweet potatoes and broccoli, shrimp and chicken, small plates stretching on to the inevitable grill-your-own s'mores.

Los Angeles Family

Gyu-Kaku Beverly Hills ― A Unique Dining Experience

by Melanie Senior

Are your kids tired of your family’s same old weekend haunts? Head for Gyu-Kaku this weekend! Gyu-what?? It’s a restaurant with all the fun and atmosphere you could ask for, with a unique take on traditional Asian cuisine. A pioneer in fusing Korean charcoal barbeque and Japanese-style grilling, Gyu-Kaku is the perfect place to bring people together. In the middle of La Cienega’s restaurant row, where diners pay hundreds of dollars to have their meals prepared and served to them on a silver platter, Gyu-Kaku has a friendly, do-it yourself vibe that puts the fun into gourmet dining. Combining a unique dining experience with established Asian customs, the accommodating staff greets diners with a boisterous welcome, while orders are enthusiastically shouted to the kitchen.

My first experience at Gyu-Kaku was with two girlfriends. Our waitress, Leng, was lively and chatty and more than happy to guide our group of amateur-chefs through Gyu-Kaku’s innovative menu. Gyu-Kaku’s sleek bar offers a variety of fine imported cold sakes and mixed “shochu” drinks, which paired nicely with marinated beef, pork, chicken and seafood selections, grilled side dishes, and various dipping sauces. An all-around favorite was the Kobe beef cubes served with a homemade ponzu sauce. The vegetarians at the table were pleased with the variety of vegetable and tofu selections, accompanied by tasty sides like garlic butter mushrooms and “kabocha” pumpkin. All dishes arrive raw and servings are small enough to order several. Each table in the restaurants fitted with a grill of glowing hot coals that are replaced throughout the evening.

Cooking at the grill in the center of our table, the evening had a relaxed, sitting-‘round-the-campfire feel. Our group grew hungry as we fussed over the progress of our pieces of succulent beef, carefully arranged with grilled eggplant and asparagus on the grill. We couldn’t help but notice the cheerful banter that seemed to fill the restaurant. Families and couples alike were having a fantastic time cooking and eating. We approached dessert with apprehension ― were we going to grill our ice cream? A new twist on an American classic, the gooey-rich s’mores was an unlikely addition to the dessert menu featuring lychee sorbet and yakimochi ice cream.

It was a wonderful meal with an atmosphere that can’t be beat. Grab the kids or some friends and head to Gyu-Kaku in Beverly Hills for fantastic food and a dining experience you won’t forget!

The Orange County Register

Barbecue chain right at home

by Katherine Nguyen

Gyu-Kaku's tasty grill-it-yourself Japanese cuisine makes a nice splash in Huntington Beach.

before Gyu-Kaku ever opened in Huntington Beach, I was making the 40-mile trek to its Beverly Hills location — never mind the exorbitant gas prices.

It's pronounced Gew-Kahku and don't worry, it took us a few botched attempts before the name rolled off the tongue comfortably.

The Japanese barbecue dining house hails from Japan, where they serve far more exotic fare than the tamer selection of marinated meats, seafood and vegetables found at its growing number of U.S. locations.

Inside the restaurant, dimmed lighting is paired with dark wood booths for a sleek and contemporary feel. Table-top grills allow patrons to cook their own meals, which arrive in small portions ideal for sharing. Unlike regular Korean barbecue houses, Gyu-Kaku has specially designer grills for a smokeless environment so you won't leave reeking of your dinner.

To be sure, Gyu-Kaku is a slick and glossy presentation compared to down-home Korean barbecue houses, and the always smiling and ever helpful staff does remind you that this is a chain. In this case, it's not a bad thing at all.

We started off with a round of drinks — the Lychee Breeze, yogurty shochu mix that yielded the right tang of tropical fruitiness, and the Grapefruit Soju, which arrived with a grapefruit half that was freshly squeezed into the drink right at our table. Also try the Shochu Mojito, a delightful take on the fizzy and minty cocktail.

We wasted no time heading right to Gyu-Kaku's starring attraction: a variety of meats, from kalbi (short ribs) and prime rib-eye to pork and fish — all with a choice of eight marinades to choose from.

The Boneless Chicken Yuzu Wings and Spicy Chilean Sea Bass, both new additions to the menu, arrived on small black dishes, with the fish wrapped in tinfoil.

We grilled the wings, the dressed in a blend of citrus and pepper, to charred but tender chunks, and after a few minutes on the charcoal flames the foil-packaged fish puffed up just a tad and we used our chopsticks to tear open the wrapping. The slab of sea bass, bright orange from the spicy ponzu sauce, melted in our mouths.

Next came the longtime darling of the house, the Harami Miso. With juicy slices of skirt steak glazed in a sweet, miso-based barbeque sauce, it's always been a consistent crowd favorite. The yakishabu shio, thin slices of beef brisket in a light citrus sauce, grilled up to a nice crisp, a fine contrast to the host of slightly thicker sliced meats.

The small portions make it easy to try one different dish after another without filling filling up too fast. the Rosu Tare thin slices of rib-eye marinated in soy sauce, fruit juices and roasted garlic, is also worth a try, along with the flavorful and butterflied Garlic Shrimp. The Assorted Vegetables was a disappointment considering it came with two cherry tomatoes, a few thick slices of onion and zucchini, and some corn on the cob. A better option would be to order a side of zesty seasoned corn, the asparagus or the mushroom medley in foil.

Grilled meats aside, my heart, or I should say, my stomach — belongs to Gyu-Kaku's Goma Negi Udon: Thick and luscious udon noodles in a savory broth are brought out in a stone clay bowl that keeps the soup piping hot. I've been known to eat two big bowls in one sitting. The Korean Bibimba is another solid choice. It's a mix of rice, seaweed and ground chicken that calls for a cracked egg to be whisked immediately into the steaming hot bowl.

We couldn't leave without trying something a bit more adventurous, so we ordered the Gyu-Tan, thin slices of beef tongue. When it was brought to our table on a small platter, it looked exactly like well, perfectly pink and oval tongues. They sizzled and crackled on the grill, curling up as they cooked. With a squeeze of lemon, the tongue offered a slightly rough and chewy texture, not at all unpleasant. The atsu-tan, quarter-inch thick pieces of tongue, provides a more substantial taste, but there's also liver, beef intestines and mino miso, or beef stomach — reportedly good for your skin.

To end the feast, we opted for the Lychee Sorbet a light and refreshing dessert that came with bits of the tangy fruit. The Black Sesame Ice Cream appeared grayish with flecks of ground sesame.

It was surprisingly tasty and helped to sooth my bitten tongue, a bit of ironic revenge from the earlier slices of gyu-tan.

Asian Restaurant News

Trend Restaurant: Gyu-Kaku Restaurants, California and New York City

Gyu-Kaku, meaning "horn of the bull" in Japanese, is Japan's best-loved Yakiniku restaurant, with over 800 locations in Japan. The grilling method used is a fusion of Korean charcoal barbeque and Japanese-style meat grilling. Now, Gyu-Kaku has come to the U.S. The flagship restaurant is located on Restaurant Row in Beverly Hills with other Los Angeles area locations, and has just opened two more restaurants in Sherman Oaks, California and in New York City with an ambitious plan to open four more by year-end. Hollywood celebrities like Mike Tyson, Drew Barrymore, Bridget Fonda and Sofia Coppola all are fans of Gyu-Kaku.

Gyu-Kaku has taken yakiniku to a new level of dining enjoyment by combining state-of-the-art charcoal roaster systems with a bountiful menu of meats, seafood, poultry and vegetables as well as vegetarian specialties and delicious Japanese drinks and desserts. Gyu-Kaku has a variety of original sauces, which it uses as marinades and provides for basting of its select meats, poultry, seafood and vegetables. Grilled by the customer over a flowing charcoal brazier, each item becomes a unique and delectable taste experience.

A single order of meal is 6-8 bite-sized pieces. Every item comes marinated in one of their original Gyu-Kaku sauces. Vegetables come in either pre-assembled foil packets that seal in the juices for a full-bodied flavor, individual serving, platters or wraps. A variety of rice and noodle offerings complete the main course. Leaving room for pudding, sorbet, and even s'mores (a traditional campfire fare). The menu offers a variety of starters, salads, sakes, beers and plum wines, as well as soft drinks, teas and waters. Prices at Gyu-Kaku range between $25-$30 per person.

Metro Source LA

Reality Bites — Richard Andreoli

Finding a place for a special occasion can be a challenge. Here are three reasons to celebrate.

Finding a good place for group action is tough. I'm talking about dining, dirty birds — but when celebrating a special occasion with my partner, Steve, and I often struggle with locations that are fun and aren't the same places we always visit. Fortunately, this summer expanded our horizons and we found three killer spaces for parties, parents and anniversaries.

Steve's father, Kurt, turned 64 this summer. GYU-KAKU (163 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310-659-5760), unlike the "seasoned" establishments on Restaurant Row, fit the bill nicely. The cheeriest waiters on Earth happily escort you to cozy booths; set inside the center of each table is a charcoal grill for cooking your meats and vegetables. Wait. You cook? Oh yes.

Gyu-Kaku's vibe is young and friendly but not loud and self important, so you can have fun and a great meal with ease.

We began with some Shochu (Korean vodka). We mixed it with grapefruit and orange juice and they were light, crisp and refreshing. Gyu-Kaku's Asian twist on the classic Caesar salad has crisp romaine leaves, a spicier dressing that wasn't heavy and is large enough to share.

As we dined, a perky waitress, who could have stepped right out of an anime show, delivered various bite-sized raw meats which we placed on the grill with tongs and cooked to our own liking. The staff offers suggestions for preparing the food and combining sauces.

Harami (skirt steak) grills up in seconds, the thin pieces brown and crispy on the edges. The chicken in a basil marinade was lightly spicy but extremely mouthwatering, while jumbo butterflied shrimp with garlic melded nicely with the smoky grill flavors. The salmon butter, brought to us in a foil packet, puffed like a Jiffy Pop when it was placed on the grill. The combination of spices and butter truly enhanced the salmon's already rich flavors. Most veggies were cooked in a similar fashion, but the tomatoes, onions and zucchini were prepared directly on the grill. Our highlight was the Kobe filet mignon served with a ponzu sauce; pieces of tender meat were a juicy delight.

Homo note: Everything but the potatoes worked on our low-carb diet.

Homo note #2: Dessert was traditional s'mores that you make right over the grill, and while not on any diet, it was Kurt's birthday and they were damn good. Gyu-Kaku inspires conversation and interaction. It's perfect for first dates, catching up with friends or pleasing parents.